In Oberammergau

The day before the first performance of the Oberammergau Passion Play (TIME, May 12) the place was a busy buzz of villagers making money from the 5,000 visitors, of visitors collecting souvenirs. Sunday dawned rainy, giving the natives new trade at the doors of the open-air theatre--hot-water bottles, blankets, umbrellas. All day through the long performance, wind and rain beat upon huddled spectators and struggling players. When the sun did burst out it made fine theatre, illuminating the soggy mob (700 peasants) clamoring for Pontius Pilate to order the Christ crucified. Comment at the village inns that night and on trains back to Berlin ran on the dignity and beauty of the new Christus (Alois Lang), the bewildered aspect of the old Judas (Guido Mayr), the rosy simplicity of the Virgin (Anni Rutz). Reported Alexander Woollcott to the New York Times: "The play triumphed even over the village of Oberammergau . . . uproar, bedlam, mean scramble . . . seats reserved and paid for at a distance may not always be had at the last moment without a dash of bribery. . . . Americans buying something to take home . . revelry . . . Bavarian orchestra playing 'Sonny Boy.' "

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