Quauhtlatohua's Tilma

Colorful and jolly as are most Roman Catholic festivals in Latin countries, they might have seemed sedate beside one which began last week at the Basilica of Guadalupe near Mexico City. There were noise, dancing, eating & drinking. From all parts of Mexico and Latin America had come 50,000 pilgrims. Ultimately, 100,000 were expected. Indians, mestizos, pure-blooded aristocrats--every class except government (antireligious) officials --were present to do honor to Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexico. With smashing crescendo of clanging bells, electric illuminations, masses, there will be celebrated this week the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe. There is an especially composed Guadalupe Hymn. Next year has been officially designated Guadalupe Year. In the archdiocese of Guadalajara, all female infants baptized in 1931 have been named Guadalupe, all boys Jose Guadalupe. This, by the archbishop's decree, has caused considerable confusion but much pious feeling.

On Dec. 9, 1531, a lowly Indian named Quauhtlatohua left his home in Cuauhtitlan to go to mass in Tlaltelolco. His name had been changed at baptism to Juan Diego. As he passed by the barren, rugged hill of Tepeyac, site of old Aztec shrines which the Spaniards had overthrown, there appeared to him, amid rainbow colors and heavenly music, a beautiful woman. It was the Virgin Mary! She addressed Juan Diego as hijo mio (my son), told him to go at once to the bishop and say that she wished a church built on the hill. Juan Diego went, but the Bishop did not believe him. Three days later the Virgin appeared again to Juan, told him to ascend the hill, where only cactus grew. There he found fragrant roses blooming, plucked them, took them in his tilma (rough blanket) to the bishop. When the tilma was unfolded, imprinted on it was a miraculous image of the Virgin. A chapel was speedily built on the hill; the image became an object of veneration, was named Guadalupe after the famed Spanish shrine. In the 17th Century the validity of the apparition was accorded Papal recognition; in the 18th Century the Virgin Mary was by a Papal Bull declared Mexico's Patroness and Protectress. Religious enthusiasm was unbounded and Dec. 12 was set apart forever as a clay for holy fiestas.

A baroque Collegiate Church (Basilica), erected to supersede the chapel, was completed in 1709 at a cost of $3,000,000. This, says skeptical Terry's guidebook, "is no doubt a gross exaggeration." By last week, some $800,000 had been spent in alterations, and clerics and pilgrims were ready for the opening ceremonies of the 400th anniversary fiesta: reconsecration of the altars, high mass, a view of the tilma, its holy image and the bejewelled Sacred Golden Crown of the Virgin, quoted at $250,000.

Because the Indians regard the Virgin of Guadalupe as their own special patroness (possibly identified also with pre-Christian goddesses), their celebration of Dec. 12 is exceedingly lively. Says Terry: "Foreigners find this unique, but trying. The unhygienic and ignorant Indians overrun the village to such an extent that the problem of preventing pestilence is a serious one. . . . The ch. is usually packed to suffocation: the devotees bring habits and an entomological congress as varied as they are astonishing, all the ch. decorations within reach are kissed to a high polish and thoroughly fumigated later, and all breathe freer when the frenzied shriners have returned to their different homes. . . ."

Last week the Indians were ready to outdo previous frenzies. Many brought ancient costumes, decked with beads, feathers, shells for their traditional dances. Others set up stands and sold native products to visitors. Through the crowds circulated vendors of the real, authentic Basilica cigarets, proceeds from the sale of which were, to be given by El Aquila Cigaret Co. to the alteration fund of the Basilica. El Aquila had first christened the cigarets Cuarto Centenario, but an impious competitor had quickly produced a brand known as Centenario, necessitating change of name and an advertisement denouncing the upstarts as crass mercenaries.

To bless the alterations of the Basilica had come Most Rev. Pascual Diaz, plump, jolly, Indian-blooded Archbishop of Mexico; Archbishop Leopoldo Ruiz y Flores, Apostolic Delegate to Mexico; ten bishops and the entire clergy of Mexico City. Tourists warned by all-wise Guide Terry brought binoculars to gaze at the til ma above the high altar. After High Mass there began a solemn procession through the Basilica.* At its head was the Sacred Golden Crown, covered with brilliants, emeralds, rubies and turquoises. Suddenly, just before it was to be hoisted in place above the Virgin's portrait, sharp-eyed Archbishop Diaz saw two brilliants tumble to the altar. Archbishop Diaz stooped, puffed, fumbled, handed the brilliants pontifically to an attendant, and the fiesta went on.

In Goa. Guns boomed, bells pealed, fireworks flared in Goa, Portuguese India last week as 10,000 persons milled through the Bom Jesus Church to kiss the feet of St. Francis Xavier, whose coffin was opened for public veneration for the 13th time since his death in 1552. The corpse was officially reported to be "in good condition." During the next month a million pilgrims are expected to view it. St. Francis Xavier, one of St. Ignatius Loyola's associates in founding the Society of Jesus, is regarded by his church as the greatest missionary since the time of the Apostles. The church in Goa was made a shrine to his memory, but the Society of Jesus secured his right arm in 1614, placed it in the Jesuit mother church, Rome's Gesu.

* Civil law forbids religious ceremonies outside churches. Despite tension between Church and State in Mexico, the Government offered reduced excursion rates to pilgrims, announced it would "give all facilities and guarantees . . . but will apply strictly the penalties ... to violate the law of cults." Only evidence of celebrating the fiesta outside of churches was that illuminated triumphal arches were put up on the road to the Basilica, that 5,000 pious Mexico Cityites plan to illuminate the facades of their houses between Dec. 8 & Jan. 8.

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