On the Bias

Valiantly but vainly has Interior Secretary Harold LeClair Ickes tried to get in on the U.S. defense program, but last week he found an alternative. His Fish and Wildlife Service produced a five-page masterwork entitled "Seafood Salads for Summer Menus." Argued the Department's expert-in-charge-of-seafood-salads: "As a heat-forgetter, for unexpected company, or as a quickly prepared meal-in-itself in a busy household, try a tangy seafood salad during the coming summer days." Sang the expert, crediting "Unknown":

Woman could live without books, She could live without ballads; But breathes there a woman Who could live without salads?

The release then gave minute directions for a dozen seafood salads, including one practically guaranteed to make citizens forget the war:

Jellied Eel Salad. Ingredients: 4-lb. eel, 2 bay leaves, 8 whole allspice, 6 cloves, 2 lemon slices, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. pepper, unflavored gelatin, horseradish sauce. Directions: skin and clean eel. Cut on bias into 1-inch lengths. Cover with cold water, heat to boiling, skim and add remaining ingredients except gelatin. Simmer until eel is tender, about 1 hour.

Arrange fish in mold. Strain broth and cook 10 minutes or until cooked down enough to just cover fish. Measure broth and allow 1/2 tbsp. gelatin for each two cups of liquid. Soften gelatin in cold water 5 minutes, dissolve in hot broth, pour over fish and chill until firm. Serve with sauce, for 6.

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