Hospital for Souls

Down the Rue de la Grotte one morning last week marched eight little boys, hand in hand, wide-eyed and solemn. They were leading the greatest procession ever held at Lourdes, one of Christendom's most famed places of pilgrimage.

Behind them came a hundred rows of other children, followed by a vast crowd of men and women. Many had walked that morning through mountain wind and pelting rain as a special act of devotion to the Virgin Mary on the 100th anniversary of her apparition to little Bernadette Soubirous in the grotto at Lourdes. By 10 o'clock, some 50,000 people were massed within the encircling wings of the basilica, or jammed shoulder to shoulder on the surrounding hillsides.

For months the citizens of Lourdes have labored to prepare for the record 8,000,000 pilgrims expected in this centenary year. On Rue de la Grotte the four-story Hotel Vatican is crusted with scaffolding as workmen rush completion of two more floors. Most of the 600 other hotels in the city (pop. 16,000) are booked solid from April to November.

To welcome 768 scheduled special trains, Lourdes has repainted its railway station and put up a big neon sign combining the papal coat of arms, the arms of Lourdes, and those of the ancient local ruling house of Bigorre. As the town continues its face-lifting, the sound of church bells is drowned everywhere by the clang and bang of cement mixers and pneumatic drills.

Loyalties & Lozenges. The motive for all this activity is not entirely religious. Lourdes is a city of shops--some 400, most of them crammed with cheap religious souvenirs: bottles for carrying water from the grotto, alarm clocks that tinkle Ave Maria, cellophane bags of throat lozenges made from "Genuine Lourdes Water." The names on the shop fronts are aimed at special loyalties: "The Infant Jesus of Prague," "St. Laurence O'Toole" (proprietors Walsh & Douly). These highly competitive private enterprises have helped the city to an estimated income of 10 billion francs (almost $24 million) a year, a figure that may well triple in 1958.

All commercialism stops at the gate to the grounds surrounding the grotto and basilica. Nothing is sold inside except candles; visitors must dress as they would in church. Under the present Bishop of Tarbes and Lourdes, Pierre-Marie Theas, the grotto has regained much of its 'original rustic simplicity; he replaced the ornate altar with a simple stone slab, took down the iron grille that used to stretch across the front of the cave, removed all but a few of the hundreds of crutches and orthopedic braces left behind by sufferers who found relief at Lourdes.*

Bishop Theas has also pushed ahead with the construction of a new basilica, big enough to hold 20,000 and almost entirely underground (so expensive has the project proved--an estimated $6,000,000 thus far--that the Vatican sent a bishop coadjutor to take charge of the finances). On a hillside above Lourdes, workmen are hurrying to finish the "City of Help," a dozen simple buildings where 600 poor pilgrims may stay free of charge.

Song of the Dove. On the anniversary last week, Bishop Theas celebrated Mass on the steps of the old basilica, before Pierre Cardinal Gerlier, Archbishop of Lyons, 17 visiting bishops (two from the U.S./-), and a sprinkling of politicians, including Italy's former Premier Amintore Fanfani. Bishop Theas read the gradual for the day: "The flowers have appeared in our land, the time of pruning is come; the song of the dove is heard in our land. Arise, my love, my beautiful one, and come, my dove in the clefts of the rock, in the hollow places of the wall."

Old (78) Cardinal Gerlier, onetime Bishop of Lourdes, walked slowly to the pulpit and looked down at the long line of wheelchairs in the front row of the congregation. "Lourdes is a land of miracles," he said, "but it is above all a place where an avalanche of grace takes place. It is a real hospital for souls."

*The Vatican has formally recognized only 54 miraculous cures.

/- Bishop Christopher Weldon of Springfield, Mass, and Auxiliary Bishop Leo Smith of Buffalo, N.Y.

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