Turkish Delights

Beaches are a matter of personal taste. Under the impression that popularity spells quality, the timid tourist is apt to want his beaches garnished with multicolored parasols, well-lotioned nymphs, and even a lifeguard thrown in for good measure. But a few intrepid travelers still like their beaches au naturel, and more and more are discovering that some of the most beautiful, unspoiled beaches in the world are to be found between two remote little towns named Antalya and Anamur on the south coast of Turkey. Framed against the Taurus mountain range that rises sharply to the north, and edged with orange, lemon, olive and fig trees, the 100-mile "Turkish Riviera" is every adventurer's midsummer daydream come true. It offers every variety of beach, from powdered sand to pebble to worn rocks. Here and there, cool mountain streams spill over steep cliffs into small, semitropical coves, and everywhere unexploited ruins lend an air of timeless tranquillity. Marble columns stand cool and sublime amongst pine trees, crusaders' castles tower above rocky promontories, and old fortresses jut out into the ocean. Most wonderful of all, the coast is virtually devoid of tourists. The reason is simple enough. Most of the Turkish Riviera has barely been touched by the 20th century. The hotels are few and Spartan, the food is good but unfamiliar, the night life is nil, and travel is tortuous. Overland, the only means of reaching the coast from Istanbul is a two-day trip over winding, pot-holed roads. But none of these problems plague most visitors to the Turkish Riviera-they come by sea. Crowded out of Monte Carlo and tired of touring the Greek islands, members of the international yachting set have begun to drop their anchors and their passengers near Turkey's untrammeled delights. Among the yachts that recently graced the port of Antalya were the three-masted schooner Sylvia, owned by Fiat Vice Chairman Gianni Agnelli, and the black 245-ton schooner Taitu, owned by Italian Builder Giorgio Varvaro. The Turkish government is slowly becoming aware that it has a priceless tourist asset in the area, has reduced the price on its two weekly flights from Istanbul to a modest $12 in order to lure newcomers. Since the cut rates went into effect eight weeks ago, the flights have been jammed. Turks and a few adventurous Europeans are heading for the place where a good room on the beach costs only $1.50 to $3 a night, and a seven-room house (with plumbing) goes for about $150 monthly.

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