TWENTY-TWO RESTAURANTS WELL WORTH THE TRIP

Poor Richard's, Ogunquit, Me. In a 1780 tavern on the King's Highway, now a restaurant specializing in Yankee pot roast cooked in wine, baked lobster in wine sauce, breasts of capon and prime ribs of beef.

Newfane Inn, Newfane, Vt. Built in 1787 as a stagecoach stop overlooking the common, owned since 1957 by French-born Chef Rene Chardain. Duck and trout, with quail and pheasant in the fall.

Toll 0ate Lodge, Manchester, Vt. Pleasant mountain scenery. Excellent veal cutlets and crabmeat.

Les Pyrenees, Canaan, N.Y. Probably the best restaurant in the upper Hudson and Berkshire region. French food prepared by Chef Louis Cherallier, who takes special pride in his canard a I'orange, jealously guards the secret. Expensive.

La Cremaillere, Bedford Village, N.Y. Excellent French food. The wine cellar fills four large rooms. Expensive.

Stonehenge, Highway 7 outside Ridgefield, Conn. Swiss Chef Albert Stockli buys his fresh vegetables from such local farmers as Thomas E. Dewey and Lowell Thomas. Elegant Continental dining in a rambling house set by a swan-filled pond.

The Milton Inn, Cockeysville, Md. Former coach stop 60 miles from Washington, D.C. Owner Allilio Allori helped in his father's inn in Corsica, now pleases Washingtonians with his baked snapper livournaise, beef bourguignon, and Long Island duckling.

THE SOUTH

Aunt Fanny's Cabin, 14 miles from Atlanta. Converted 160-year-old slave quarters jammed with antique spinning wheels and the like. The food is authentically old-fashioned Southern: gumbo soup with okra, crisp, deep-fried chicken, squash casserole and potatoes baked in resin.

Chalet Suzanne Resort Inn, Highway 27 near Lake Wales, Fla. Bertha Hinshaw is 83, but she still runs the show. Her soups are so good that 600 gourmet shops in the U.S. and Europe carry them in cans.

Elmwood Plantation, ten miles from New Orleans on the Old River Road.

Lovingly restored plantation house, possibly the oldest on the Mississippi. Chef Nick Mosca serves all the New Orleans standards, plus some dishes of his own, notably jumbo shrimp in a hot, garlicky wine sauce.

Stagecoach Inn, Salado, Texas. Sam Houston and Jim Bowie knew it as a relay station for the Overland stages. Magnificent setting and a highly diversified menu, which includes such local favorites as banana fritters and hush puppies.

THE MIDWEST

Lowell Inn, Stillwater, Minn. Owner Mrs. Nelle Palmer considers her antique-laden inn "the Mount Vernon of the West." Diners know that the trout are fresh because they pick them from a pool.

Chateau Louise, near Dundee, III. Prime rib is sold by the inch: $3.95 for a half-inch, $4.95 for one inch, and $6.95 for two. One room duplicates a 14th century wine cellar.

Tosi's. Route 94, south of St. Joseph, Mich. Owner Emil Tosi features Italian dishes, makes his own pasta. Specialty of the house: veal cordon bleu with truffles. Great pride taken in wine list. Before the meal, cocktails in an Italian garden with fountains and statuary.

The Golden Lamb Inn, near Lebanon, Ohio. Old colonial inn with museum character. Serves Long Island duckling with wild rice, Chateaubriand, Virginia ham.

THE WEST

The Copper Kettle, Aspen, Colo. One of the best country restaurants in the U.S. No choice, but a different international cuisine each day.

Gartner Haus, Estes Park, Colo. Chalet overlooking Lake Estes. German dishes: sauerbraten, wienerschnit-zel and potato pancakes.

Bonanza Inn. Carson City, Nev. Continental cuisine. Everything cooked to order. Champignons under glass, sweetbreads, tarragon chicken, chocolate mousse. Old stone house with Louis XIV couches for cocktails and a splendid view of the High Sierras.

Edith Palmer's Country Inn, Virginia City, Nev. Rich and exotic dishes, ranging from beef Stroganoff to san-juck, an epicurean dish of the Korean upper class, prepared by Owner Edith Palmer Kolodziej. Expensive.

Monica's Czech Restaurant, Inverness, Calif. On a hillside overlooking Tomales Bay. Owner Milan Prokupek was an official in Masaryk's government, fled the Communists in 1948. Excellent Czech food. Inexpensive.

Gal latin's, Monterey, Calif. Grand dishes, such as bull's head complete with apple in the mouth and eyes intact, and roast imperial Russian wild boar. Boar served only on several days' notice, at $14.75. Also $20-a-plate servings of Chateaubriand, served only to parties of ten or more.

Stuft Shirt, Newport Beach, Calif. Local divers descend 200 ft. for abalone, which is pounded, dipped in egg, sauteed in butter.

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