The '76 Grapes of Joy

God made only water, but man made

wine.

--Victor Hugo

God spared precious little water for France this past summer, but wine-making man is glorying in His neglect. From the rolling, red-earth slopes of Burgundy, whose minuscule vineyards might have been stitched into place by the Gobelin tapestry masters, to the gravelly, gray fields of Bordeaux, where sunny days are normally counted like pearls, the long, sultry Cezanne summer has wrought wonders among the grapes. For many wines, 1976 may prove to be the vintage of the century. At worst, the 1976 wines will be memorable and abundant in just about all the 655,125 acres of French vineyards that are rated first class, or AOC (for Appellation d'Origine Controllee).

Such rarely bandied words as "remarquable," "fantastique," and "extraordinaire" are being breathed by growers and wine masters, traditionally a cautious clan. "We have rarely seen such quality in the grape," attests Jean Delmas, estate manager of Chateau Haut-Brion, the fabled premier grand cru classe Bordeaux chateau. As the picking drew to a close last week, some growers sounded like Verlaine of the vineyard. Said Aubert Gaudin de Villaine, co-owner of Burgundy's great Romanee-Conti vineyard: "These grapes could have been made in a sculptor's studio--small, round, even and tightly bunched, close around the heart." Their yield, most experts agree, will be vins de garde--wines to lay down and treasure for ten to 20 years.

Jeroboams of joy are also bubbling over in Champagne country, where the wine is already pressed and fermenting in the limestone caves. Some experts predict that 1976 will be the best year since 1893. Joseph Dargent, head of the Champagne Growers Association, exults: "The only thing that could change it from a truly remarkable vintage is an earthquake that would topple the barrels and spill the juice." Happily, earthquakes in Champagne are about as common as truffles on trees.

Only as the wines age can their myriad nuances and complexities be defined. But, as in the face and form of an infant beauty, all the lineaments of desirability are there. The grapes are thick-skinned, indicative of a high tannin content, which will help the red wines mellow with age and give them a pure, deep, brilliant hue. They are rich in sugar, assuring a high degree of natural alcohol (13% to 14% this year, v. 10% to 11% in normal seasons). The grapes also have a low acid content, promising full, soft wines for early consumption.

After consultation with Alexis Lichine, famed oenophile (The New Encyclopedia of Wines & Spirits), grower (Chateau Prieure-Lichine), and wine merchant, TIME Paris Bureau Chief Gregory Wierzynski cabled this vatside evaluation from the major regions:

BURGUNDY. The great red wines of Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune are full-bodied and richly colored, and will, as they say, "upholster the palate." They will be even better than 1969. The whites are fruity, low in acid, round and full of character, comparable to 1962. All Burgundy prices are bound to rise at least 15%, after a dramatic decline over the past two years; whites, which have not had a good year since 1969, may climb even higher. The Burgundies should be mature enough to drink in three or four years.

BEAUJOLAIS. These light, fruity, relatively inexpensive wines from southern Burgundy will be superb. Such favorites as Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly and Fleurie may rival some of the Burgundies in three years, though they will be drinkable as early as next spring. The Chardonnay whites from the Macon district, such as Pouilly-Fuisse, are very fruity, high in alcohol and richly flavored. Prices can be expected to jump 25%.

COTE DU RHONE. Despite late rains in this immensely prolific area, quality and color are notable. Some excellent Cotes du Rhones have been selling in the U.S. at about $3 a bottle. Most wines from the area, including the renowned Chateauneuf-du-Pape, are now likely to rise at least 25%. They should be ready to enjoy in two years.

LOIRE VALLEY. An abundant crop of high-quality wine has been in the vats for a month. Muscadet, the dry, fruity white, and the slightly sweet Rose D'Anjou, which are best drunk young, will remain some of the best bargains anywhere at around $3. The reds, such as Chinon, Bourgeuil and Saumur-Cham-pigny. show every sign of excellence. The whites, Pouilly-Fume, Sancerre and Vouvray, were also exceptional. Loire Valley wines will go up 10% and be drinkable within a year.

CHAMPAGNE. The wine will have a distinctive yellow cast because of the dry season. Maurice Chevalier should be alive to hymn it. Prices will not be set for three years.

BORDEAUX. On the verge of its greatest year ever, the area was drenched by late rains, which diluted the juice. Nonetheless, the grands crus will at worst match 1975, a great year; most St. Emilions will surpass it, as will the sweet white wines of Sauternes and Barsac. This year's Bordeaux are perfumed, full-bodied and richly colored. They should be drinkable in three or four years; further maturing will make them memorable. Most Bordeaux tripled and quadrupled in price in the early 1970s; then their cost was halved. Now they have recovered, and the '76s will probably maintain the current level.

Even with the expected price increases, the wines should be a good value. Indeed, shippers predict that Americans, who already consume nearly 20% of all French wine exports, will buy more than ever this year. After all, what American wine lover could resist laying down a great bottle carrying the label of '76?

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