Monday, Apr. 27, 1998

Hey, Dig This!

By Leslie Dickstein

If your children are interested in archaeology and Native American culture, Arizona is a find. In just one or two weeks, you can travel from ancient Indian ruins to modern-day Navajo homes. En route, you'll see some of nature's most amazing creations: more than 1,150 sq. mi. of extinct volcanoes, pristine mountain rivers, sparkling lakes amid clean, cool air.

Begin your journey at the Raven Site Ruin, one of the few archaeological digs where you don't have to be an archaeologist to dig in. Located near Springerville (about four hours east of Phoenix), the prehistoric site was a pottery-manufacturing center occupied by the Anasazi and Mogollon Indians until it was abandoned some 600 years ago. These days the site offers hands-on excavation programs that last from one day to one week (children must be at least nine years of age). Mornings are spent digging with trained archaeologists; afternoons include hikes to nearby petroglyphs (ancient rock drawings) and laboratory work. Rates are $59 a day for adults, $37 for children. Lodging is either on site (for large groups) or at guesthouses nearby. Check with the Raven Site staff or the Round Valley Chamber of Commerce for suggestions; a few have discounts for program participants.

While you're in the area, visit Greer, a picturesque little town about 20 miles west of Springerville. Your tour should also include Casa Malpais, a 13th century historic site and museum that features a large volcanic-rock kiva (a room used for men's ceremonies or meetings), a 60-room pueblo, a natural rock staircase, a ceremonial plaza and rock-art panels.

One or two days at Raven Site is generally sufficient unless your child has an unusually keen interest in archaeology. When you can break away, head north on highway 191 toward St. Johns and the Petrified Forest. On the way, you'll pass through the Springerville Volcanic Field, the third largest of its kind in the continental U.S. Other possible stops include Rattlesnake Point, an archaeological site with petroglyphs (tours available via land or boat), and Lyman Lake State Park, for swimming, boating, hiking and fishing.

Petrified Forest National Park, where a 28-mile scenic drive takes you through colorful fields of petrified logs, Indian ruins and sweeping views of the Painted Desert, is a must. Don't miss the Rainbow Forest Museum at the park's south entrance: kids love seeing the dinosaur fossils, which date back more than 200 million years, and viewing up close the giant petrified logs on the small trail just outside.

Continue heading north to Ganado, on the Navajo Reservation, which is home to the country's largest Indian tribe. If you arrive around lunchtime, stop at Ramon's, on state highway 264, for some traditional Navajo fare. You might also stop at the Hubbell Trading Post, a site dating back to the 1870s, which is the oldest continuously operating trading post on the reservation. Ranger-led tours are available.

Continue north to Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Shay) National Monument, which offers all the Grand Canyon's splendor minus the traffic, crowds and noise. Inhabited by Indians for about 2,000 years, the canyon has two scenic rim drives with breathtaking views of the multihued canyon and ancient cliff dwellings. All visitors must be accompanied by a Navajo guide for walks, horseback rides and driving tours. The only public access into the canyon without a guide is at the White House Ruins Trail. Lodging options in the area include the Thunderbird Lodge, built around an 1896 trading post, a Holiday Inn and a Best Western. For those who want to experience Navajo life-style, there's a rugged bed and breakfast (stress rugged: you sleep in a dirt-floored hogan, and there is no running water or electricity) run by Coyote Pass Hospitality in nearby Tsaile.

--Reported by Laura Laughlin

With reporting by Laura Laughlin