The Man Who Invented Stilettos

By Kate Betts

"We don't want this to be just like every other boutique," says Ines de la Fressange, a former Chanel model who has taken over the direction of the relaunch of Roger Vivier's eponymous line of couture shoes. Vivier, who is credited with inventing some of the greatest footwear of his time--stilettos, thigh-high boots and the famous square-toed pump that Catherine Deneuve wore in Belle de Jour--believed in exceptional craftsmanship. So when Diego Della Valle, owner of Tod's shoes and bags, among other luxury labels, bought the Vivier name and decided to reinvent it, he hired designer Bruno Frisoni to add a touch of modernity to Vivier's great classics. Among the shoes on display in the charming Faubourg St.-Honore shop (where 18th century commodes are mixed with flea-market finds in Vivier's eclectic style) are gold alligator Grecian sandals, pink leopard-print boots and green satin stilettos with red chiffon roses. Although the collection can be found only in the Paris boutique, clients can custom-order shoes. "Vivier really invented the fashion accessory," says Fressange. "He was ahead of his time. He made shoes for the Queen of England, John Lennon and also for a mass-market chain." These models, though, are strictly for aficionados. --By Kate Betts