Beyond Lipton

By Jeremy Caplan

Americans who resist the coffee culture are brewing up a growing market: U.S. tea sales are up sixfold since 1990. As tea goes gourmet, all-natural labels such as Rishi and Ito En are moving in on Snapple and Lipton. Here's a taste of what the tea world will be savoring this summer.

o TEA FOR DESSERT

As a flavoring, tea is turning up in upscale chocolates and ice creams. But it is particularly tasty in this new line of Tea Cookies from Torn Ranch. Flavors include masala chai, green-tea jasmine, African rooibos with guava and peppermint chill. Made with real tea, butter, pure vanilla and organic flour, they're perfect with chai.

o LOOSE LEAVES

For tea aficionados, mass-market supermarket tea bags don't cut it. True tea is loose, fresh and sold by purveyors such as Rishi, which buys directly from harvesters and sells Fair Trade--certified and organic teas at rishi-tea.com For convenience, Teaosophy and Harney & Sons offer loose tea in baglike sachets and pods.

o COLD BREWED

All-natural, unsweetened teas are fast gaining favor, as are chilled organic brews, such as Honest Tea. The new Cha Dao brand, left, uses actual tea leaves, not concentrates or powders common in other brands. (But because it has no preservatives, it must stay refrigerated.) Ito En's newest drink, Sencha Shot, right, is a potent green tea. The mini can is full of antioxidants and has zero calories.

o DIPPING IN

Prefer to steep tea in your cup, not a pot? A new line of heat-resistant silicone infusers lets you brew loose tea in ordinary mugs. These rubber spoons can also stir in honey or sugar and come apart for cleaning. Made by Zanif and sold at sarut.com for $10 each, they come in five colors.

o CHEW ON THIS

Debuting this spring, Tearrow's tea-infused gum comes in eight flavors, including oolong, lemon and green tea. Imported from China, the sugarless gum uses actual tea solids, not imitation flavoring, and was a surprise hit at March's World Tea Expo in Las Vegas.

o POWER POT

With two layers of glass, the Bodum Bora Bora tea press keeps your brew hot but stays cool to the touch on the table. Its plunger lets you stop steeping tea without having to remove the leaves. Bodum also makes double-layered cups that keep tea hot and hands cool.