High Flyer

By Betsy Kroll

In its prime, valextra LAID claim to a roster of clients that included the most glamorous jet setters in the world. Grace Kelly, Maria Callas and Gianni Agnelli toted the streamlined, masterfully designed luggage. It was the quality and inconspicuous style that set Valextra apart from its logo-ridden competitors of the day. Founded in 1937 by Giovanni Fontana, Valextra boasted handmade bags in evergreen, sleek shapes. Pergamena white became the brand's trademark color after its first set of luggage, made of untreated goat leather, got wet and altered shades. A bit impractical for the average traveler, white reinforced the air of luxury possessed by Valextra. In 1954 the company won the prestigious Compasso d'Oro design award for its 24 ore bag, a briefcase roomy enough to fit a change of clothes. On a roll through the '50s and '60s--when a Kuwaiti emir ordered 14 full sets of luggage--the company stalled after Fontana left in the late '70s. Passing under several sets of new owners, Valextra languished as workmanship diminished, until 2003 when new owners began a return to the company's roots. It lured back artisans that had retired after Fontana's departure, created an apprentice program for new workers and shuttered surplus boutiques. Making strides to rebuild its DNA, Valextra is firmly positioned for another successful takeoff.