Abstract

Flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) is a versatile plant that supplies consumers both fiber and seed. The long, strong bast fibers processed for linen are prized for comfort and a distinctive appearance in textiles, while shorter fibers are used in textile blends and for specialty paper, reinforced composites, and a variety of other lower value applications. World production of flax fiber has declined from a few decades ago, but particular countries with a long history of flax, eg, Russia and former Soviet Union countries, China, and Western Europe, still dominate in production and areas cultivated. To extract fibers, flax stems are first retted, which is a microbial process to loosen fibers from nonfibrous tissues. The most widely used practice is dew-retting, where proper moisture and temperature support colonization and partial degradation of flax stems by indigenous fungi. Low quality and other disadvantages of this practice have prompted research for new retting methods, particularly those using chemicals and cell-free enzymes. Methods to test fiber properties exist, but uniform standards using objective measurements are needed. Research is being undertaken to develop standards toward a uniform classification system for flax fiber. Linen is ~2–3% of the textile market, having been replaced some time ago by cotton as the premier natural fiber for textiles. Still, linen continues to maintain a share of the luxury textile market. Potentially, the greatest future for flax fibers could be as cottonized, short fibers for textile blends and as industrial fibers with a range in properties for nonwoven materials and composites.